These events occurred under colonial rule, which started after 1757, and were described by Nehru and also some more recent scholars as 'de-industrialization'. This change in consumption patterns, as a result of the restriction on imported finished goods, was a key part of the process that reduced the Indian economy from sophisticated textile production to the mere supply of raw materials. The Lancashire manufacturers exploited this exemption coloured cotton weft with linen warp were specifically permitted by the 1736 Manchester Act. The Woollen, etc., Manufactures Act 1720 was passed, enacting fines against anyone caught wearing printed or stained calico muslins. Coventry woollen manufacturers claimed that the imports were taking jobs away from their workers. Cottonwool imports recovered though, and by 1720 were almost back to their 1701 levels.

Also, Lancashire businessmen produced grey cloth with linen warp and cotton weft, known as fustian, which they sent to London for finishing.

These were printed with popular patterns in southern England. This caused demand to switch to imported grey cloth instead-calico that had not been finished-dyed or printed. In 1700 an Act of Parliament passed to prevent the importation of dyed or printed calicoes from India, China or Persia. Cheap calico prints, imported by the East India Company from Hindustān (India), had become popular. This was due to commercial legislation to protect the woollen industry. Cotton processing was tiny: in 1701 only 900,775 kilograms (1,985,868 lb) of cottonwool was imported into England, and by 1730 this had fallen to 701,014 kg (1,545,472 lb). That industry, centered in the east and south in towns such as Norwich, jealously protected their product. In the 18th century, England was famous for its woollen and worsted cloth. Politics of cotton in the British Empire Trade with Europe followed from the 17th century onwards. By the 15th century, calico from Gujarat made its appearance in Cairo, then capital of the Egypt Eyalet under the Ottoman Empire. Calico was woven using Gujarati cotton from Surat for both the warp and weft. It was mentioned in Indian literature by the 12th century when the polymath and writer Hemachandra described calico fabric prints with a lotus design.

1.2 Politics of cotton in the British EmpireĬalico originated in Calicut, from which the name of the textile came, in South India, now Kerala, during the 11th century, where the cloth was known as 'chaliyan'.

Calico dress